The Astounding Travel Adventures of a Miraculous Fellow


Picture Time! Hooray!
October 3, 2008, 11:47 am
Filed under: Brazil

Alright, here are the highlights of Brazil, in pure photographic picture form without all the verbs, nouns, and other hoohah that I always put in my blog posts.

http://picasaweb.google.com/jeffwheeland/Brasil?authkey=53-FItV9-S0#

Enjoy.

 

 

Hello, I'm Jeff Wheeland.  Nice to meet you.

Hello, I am Jeff Wheeland. Nice to meet you.



Brazilian Conclusions
September 29, 2008, 8:29 pm
Filed under: Brazil

Nooooooooooooooooooooo!

Sniff…sniff.  I left Brasil.

It’s not you, Brasil.  It’s me.

I had to do it.  After seven glorious weeks, it was time to go.

As I drove across the border, overlooking the Paraguai River that divides Brasil and Argentina, I nearly opened the door of the car, flung myself overboard, and swam back into the waiting arms of a friendly Brasileira, who would, undoubtedly, nurse me back to health.  Maybe, even “naughty” nurse me back to health, if you know what I mean…wink, wink.

Alas, I stayed in the car.  It was time to give Argentina a chance.  So, upon arrival in this non-Brazilian country, I wandered off into the wilderness to think about my experiences in the tremendous Eden that is Brasil.

As I started to ruminate about Megafox and the water buffaloes of Ihla do Marajó, I began to softly weep.

When I thought of frolicking on the sand dunes and crystal-clear lagoons of Parque Lençois Maranhense, the trickle of weeping quickly turned to sobs, and a stream of tears began to form on the nearby ground.

As I pondered the refreshing, ice-cold beer and Caipirinha-induced hangovers with whom I frequently found company, the stream of sobs turned to a small river.  And the river runs through it…not totally sure what “it” is, but the river definitely runs through it.

Upon musing about Salvador’s crazed African Candomblé religious ceremonies that we enchantedly watched while church members were put into a deity-induced trance and I was cleansed of my sins by a cigar-smoking, cachaca-drinking priest, the river of tears began to flood the plains.

While reflecting upon the magical Happiest Farm on Earth, its tiny houses, and delightfully obese dog, the tears began to flood Argentina’s lands, and form a giant flowing mass of water.

Finally, upon thinking about the friendliness of Brazilian females and their love of Samba, Skol beer, and foreign blond-haired men, I had enough.  The sobs were continuing unabated from my eyes, and little did I know, that downstream, a great event was occurring from the river of tears — one that would be my final homage to this great, great land, known as Brasil.

The local indigenous people have come to name this phenomenon Las Cataratas de Iguaçu, or Iguaçu Falls. These sob-induced falls now cross the borders of both Argentina and Brasil.  I have even heard that there are now full national parks, complete with tourist facilities, in both countries as a monument to a gringo’s seven breathtaking weeks in Brasil.

So, that is it.

Goodbye Brasil.  You’ve taught me to dominate the sport of Paddleball, to inhale Caipirinhas, to be a frenzied futébol lunatic, to run-in-place or “dance” the Samba, to unconditionally love Megafox, to ride water buffalo, to clandestinely snap photos of bikini-clad, beach bunny Brasileiras in Ipanema, to speak Portugunol, to never, ever, ever swim in the alligator- and piranha-saturated waters of the Pantanal, and, most importantly, you’ve taught me that you are a phenomenal country that should have its secondary national anthem be:

“And Iiiiiiiiiiiii eeeee iiiiiiiii, will alwaaaaaays looooooove yooouuuuuuuuuuuu…”

Thumbs up, Brasil.  Thumbs up.

You’re up Argentina, but you’ve got a lot of work to do.  I’d suggest starting straight off with…oh, I don’t know…maybe a foursome to get you set in the right direction.

I’ll be waiting.



The Pantanal
September 25, 2008, 7:14 pm
Filed under: Brazil

After leaving behind the giant beavers of Rio and Sao Paolo (and the women they are attached to), I headed out West in search of the Giant Beaver of the Pantanal.

Toucans...or TWOcans. Pun intended. Holy shit that's funny.

Toucans...or TWOcans. Pun intended. Holy shit that's funny!

For those not in the know, the Pantanal is the world’s largest marshland, 262,000 square kilometers, over 20 times larger than the Everglades in the US.  This area is very well preserved by the Brazilian government, and is one of the best places on Earth to see abundant wildlife: anteaters, jaguars, armadillos, alligators, piranhas, toucans, Giant River Otters, Giant Anacondas, Giant Rodents, and, with any luck, the Giant Beaver.

Alligators and the Pantanal -- more common than Stank on a Frenchman.

Alligators and the Pantanal -- more common than Stank on a Frenchman.

After taking a 20 hour bus across the country far into Nowheresville, I started seeing animals everywhere.  Colorful toucans flying overhead, emus charging around weirdly, capybaras (giant hampsters) standing there looking stupid, alligators menacingly eyeballing the stupid capybaras, um…what else…kangaroos bouncing gleefully, polar bears nursing their young, eh…teradactyls playing poker…

Ok, so I made up those last few.  But, I saw tons of animals, and this was still on the bus.  The next morning, myself, two Australian girls, and a bunch of French clowns took a jeep down the wilderness road to search for more animals.  After 15 minutes of driving, our guide jumped out of the car and spotted fresh jaguar tracks on the ground.  It is very, very rare to spot jaguars in the wild, so we looked around for awhile, but it was gone.  I suggested we use one of the French people as bait, but after a couple of hours of waiting, not even this plan could entice a jaguar out of hiding.  I guess even the mighty jaguar of the Pantanal is no match for the mighty stink that emanates from a Frenchman’s armpits.

Macaws -- Um...nothing really funny to say about them.

Macaws. Um...nothing really funny to say about them.

As we moved on, we spotted an incredible assortment of animals just lying around, without a care in the world.  Monkeys, macaws, snakes, lizards, alligators, birds, and more birds, not to mention even more of the animals I spotted from the bus.  My favorite animal is henceforth the Giant Hampster, because it is so stupid looking, and makes amusing noises when it becomes terrified as a gringo chases after it.

Piranhas -- Who's eating who now, lil' fishy?

Piranhas -- Who's Eating Who Now, Lil' Fishy?

The next day we tried our hand at piranha fishing.  I guess technically, “tried” isn’t quite the appropriate word, because all it took was putting beef on your hook, lowering it in the water, and lifting within 3 seconds with a piranha on the hook.  These little bastards are terrifyingly aggressive.  Our guide told us a story about a tourist who was boating at night, crashed, gashed his head, and fell in the water.  Within one minute, he was completely eaten by piranhas.  Yikes.  There will be no swimming for yours truly, Lord only knows what they’d do to this sweet, sweet man flesh.

Yowza.  Anywho, these dumb little fish were so nuts for meat that we even chopped up a piranha we had caught, baited the hook with it, and, within 3 seconds, caught another piranha.  Filthy cannibals.  As we got more and more bored, we invented a game enjoyed by man and alligator alike: man catches a piranha, smashes it against the boat, then carefully hurls it to a nearby alligator to catch.  I call it “Ultimate Piranha.”  After tiring of this lovely game, we had caught our share of piranhas for a the night’s meal of fried piranha and piranha soup (which our guide creepily called “Brazilian Viagra”).  A meal suited for a erectile-disfuctional King.

Them Gators is Good Eatin'

Them Gators is Good Eatin'

After our fishing adventure, we took a boat trip up river in search of more animals.  Again, this was not very difficult.  There are alligators lining the shores up and down the river, and other animals flying, jumping, and frolicking about everywhere you look.  We hiked up a small mountain in the middle of the marshes, and looked out on complete and total wilderness, without a sight of human settlement.

Alas, the elusive Giant Beaver was nowhere to be found.

Monkeys gearing up to throw some feces at us.

Monkeys gearing up to throw some feces at us.

That night we went out on a nighttime boat tour, and as our guide flashed a spotlight around, we saw hundreds of alligator eyes staring back at us.  These little creepers were sneaking around everywhere, mainly because they are protected by the government so that the locals can’t eat them, or make them into leather boots, leather hats, leather sunglasses, or leather chaps, Brokeback Pantanal-style.  Unfortunately, we did not see any other animals that night, and another boat driver came back and told us we missed a jaguar by about 15 minutes.  Drat.

Thus, while we missed the opportunity to see any anacondas (and I was unable to yell “There’s snakes out der dis big?!”), saw no jaguars, and confirmed that the only Giant Beavers in Brazil were fueled by Samba music and Skol beer, the Pantanal gets a giant A+ in my book.  This place is amazing, full of wildlife, untouched nature, and man-eating animals just itching to play a game of “Ultimate Piranha.”

Capybaras -- Giant Hampsters

Capybaras -- Giant Hampsters



I Love You, Rio de Janeiro
September 22, 2008, 8:26 am
Filed under: Brazil
Rio de Janeiro

Rio de Janeiro

Rio de Janeiro. One the most marvelous cities on Earth.

Sure, it’s horribly dangerous. Sure, there are terrible slums that are stacked right on top of all parts of the city, rich and poor. Sure, the inequality is astounding and disturbing.

But, holy shit, is it still a beautiful city.

Lush rolling mountains dot the hillsides, and drop right into the clear blue Atlantic Ocean. The Pao de Azucar — a huge, cliff-sided, granite rock — sits right in the middle of the bay. A giant Jesus statue on top of one of the mountains overlooks the city saying “Hey Brazilians, I can see you sinning. But it’s cool, I couldn’t be mad at you lovable rascals.” And of course, there are beaches that stretch for miles and miles, full of scantily clad Brasileiras that don’t really mind a blond-haired, blue eyed foreigner is pretending to take pictures of the ocean, but really snapping photos of their hindquarters.

Pao de Açucar -- A Big Ass Rock

Pao de Açucar -- A Big Ass Rock

Now, however, for the first time in two months, I am traveling alone. My travel buddy, Pat, left. I am alone. So alone, so cold. Darkness seems to envelop everything. I lost a solid wingman, a good translator, and a technically-sound drinking partner. He was “Goose” and I, of course, was “Maverick” (although he seemed to attract the more handsome ladies an unnervingly disproportionate amount of the time)…but fuck that, this is my story, so I’m Maverick. In fact, he’s not even Goose, he’s just some air traffic controller at the fighter jet school. Yeah. That’s it. If there’s ever a “Top Gun 7: Out of Control Love Traffic” maybe Pat can be the star and win all the female air traffic controllesses…but I’m not bitter.

Anywho, now, as a solo traveler in Rio, I did what anyone else would do. Find some people to go out with, and meet some Cariocas (women from Rio). And this I did. I headed out with some Germans that I met in Salvador a week earlier, and hit up Rio’s crazy party part of town, Lapa. This place is right next to a favela, but the danger of the area only adds to the excitement of the giant clubs. Upon entering, the place was full of a 15 member band, and one thousand Brazilians, whose body parts were swinging wildly about in what they call “Samba.”

The Beach in Ipanema...Wait, what's that on the left?

The Beach in Ipanema...Wait, what's that on the left?

Now, as far as I can tell, Samba dancing is physically impossible for non-Brazilians. The first time I attempted it, I dislocated both of my hips, ruptured my spleen, exploded both of my kneecaps, and somehow managed to burn off one of my eyebrows. After a couple weeks in the hospital, this night in Lapa was my chance to try again. I realized now that Samba is not my most fluent dance step (clearly, for me, this is the “Smiling Slow Roger Running Man,” a combination of the Roger Rabbit and Running Man, all performed in slow motion with a big shit-eating grin on my face) but in order to meet the locals, I had to do something. So I just started running in place, then managed to blend in a couple of steps from the “Funky Chicken,” all the while whistling a song I thought could pass as Brazilian Samba.

Jesus and I -- The Gruesome Twosome

Jesus and I -- The Gruesome Twosome

Surprisingly, this was sufficient; I think not so much for being mistaken as a Samba dance move, but mainly because it drew the attention of local Cariocas who wandered over to see: 1) why there was a dying antelope flopping around on the dance floor; and 2) why it was whistling “Who Let the Dogs Out.”

Alas, one Carioca got close enough to get tangled in my flailing limbs and was forced to dance with me until the Jaws of Life were found to release her from my flesh trap. But, as time went on, she took a liking to this simple-minded foreigner, and started teaching me slow-mo Samba.

Unfortunately, teaching me Mandarin Chinese in 45 minutes would have been simpler than teaching me Samba, but this little vixen stuck around through constant toe crushings, until we ending up doing routine dental checkups on each other with our tongues.

Oh, to be in love with a 21 year old Brazilian woman. While solo travel can be difficult for some, Rio de Janeiro can much it much, much easier on a man, as it’s one of the coolest places on Earth. Although, in reality, hanging out with a 21 year old Brazilian could almost even make Caracas into one of the coolest places on Earth.

Almost.



Oh. My. God.
September 8, 2008, 10:46 am
Filed under: Brazil
Brazilians like futébol.  Not soccer, not football, but futébol.  Technically, they are all the same sport, but futébol does something strange to Brazilians.  Like a crackhead on PCP, futébol induces lunacy, shrieking, singing, dancing, and pure, unbridled mania in a Brazilian spectator.
 
It is awesome.
 
Last Sunday, I went with my three Germans friends to a game at the venerable Maracaná stadium in Rio de Janeiro.  Take the history of Lambeau Field and Yankee Stadium, combine it with the insanity of the Oakland Coliseum when Raiders fans are really, really wound up on “Free Knife and Booze Day,” multiply that by fourteen, and you have Maracaná.  This place is the Mecca of futébol for Brazilians.  Every child in this country grows up dreaming of playing here; or if they suck at futébol, at the very least pummeling a rival fan here. 
 
Luckily for us, the game that Sunday involved a showdown of epic proportions.  We got to witness two teams from Rio playing each other.  Fluminense, the generally poorer team with heavy support from the favela communities, was playing Flamengo, the rich, snobby team with the majority of fans throughout Rio.  Normally, I’d jump on the bandwagon for Fluminense in a heartbeat, but being a foreigner and fearing being de-limbed by rabid fans, whom would then use my legs for bats, my torso as a stand, and my head as a whiffle ball, we held off choosing a team until we got an idea where we were sitting.
 
Before the game, as we were herded in with another group of frightened foreigners, we watched as two horse-riding police slapped a fan, then pulled out their beat sticks to teach him a lesson.  I’m not totally sure what that lesson was, probably something to do with not barbecueing and consuming tourists, when the guy yelled something from his group of friends and the cops said “Okay, okay, we’re leaving.”  This made me slightly nervous.
 
However, upon entering the game, we found out that we were Flamengo fans, as most of the 60,000 people sitting near us were wearing the red and black of my newly adopted team.  Wearing any other color would invite a quick death.  Mercifully, we sat down in the upper levels of Maracaná, as fans enjoy throwing things at the fans in the lower section, such as lit flares, fireworks, smoke bombs, and cups full of urine. 
 
Before the game even started, the fans got pretty fired up.  First, the drums started.  Not just one drum, but probably at least 25, and they didn’t stop until the game ended.  Tens of thousands of fans were jumping up and down in unison, singing the songs of Flamengo, which generally included poetic hymns describing the rape and murder of Fluminense fans.  Next, about 100 giant Flamengo flags started moving their way around the stands swaying to and fro, celebrating what would be a crushing defeat of their rivals, or at least a massacre of their families and children if Flamengo was to lose.  Next, small plastic bags of cut up newspaper were thrown around to all fans from section to section, to be chucked into the air when Flamengo took the field.  Finally, the coup-de-gras, the flares started up.  Not just a few of them, but literally hundreds of flares and fireworks around the stadium.
 
Then, suddenly, the place exploded.  I quickly pooped my pants in surprise, and upon being covered in shredded newspaper, I fired my newspaper into the air, and my team, Flamengo, was taking the field.  I was instantaneously a Flamengo fan, and I suddenly realized that all of my life, I had hated Fluminense and all of their wretched, scoundrel fans. 
 
Again, the place was saturated in deafening songs, horns, drums, fireworks, and the two dudes sitting in front of me started cursing like 14th-century Portuguese pirates.  While I do not speak Portuguese very well at all, my virgin ears were accosted by well over 4,784 curse words such as “puta” and “porra de caralho” which I’m pretty sure mean “jerkhole” and “crud factory”.
 
And, with all of this, the game hadn’t even started yet.
 
When it did start, both the Flamengo fans and the Fluminense were going berserker.  But, there were a whole lot more of us Flamengans, so we drowned out those trecherous buggers from Fluminense.  That is, until Fluminense scored.  The place went eerily quiet, except the taunts from Fluminense.  I expected a tactical nuke to be launched from our stands over at them, but instead the Flamengans just started cheering even louder than before, until a nice pass into the box turned into a…
 
…GOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I’ve never seen anything like the reaction to this goal at any sporting event in my life. 
 
I quickly did what I generally do in surprising situations, and pooped my pants again.  Then, we all started jumping, dancing, screaming, drumming, lighting flares, shooting fireworks, swinging flags, and taunting those fools from Fluminense for their pitiful performance as soccer fans.  The place was bumping and grooving for at least 20 minutes after the goal, until Fluminense had the nerve to score again.  Those bastards.
 
At this point, a couple of our Flamengo fans started booing our own goalie, and the dude in front of me was not too impressed.  He addressed these people gently, but firmly, (and I directly quote) “I wish you were sitting in my row, because I would murder you.”  This did not seem like an idle threat.
 
As the game went on, it looked more and more likely that we would lose, and a complete riot would ensue outside, until the last two minutes when a quick cross reached a Flamengo head, and it was planted in the corner of the net…
 
…GOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Mercifully, the game ended with a riot-stalling 2-2 tie.  This day, no one would be killed, and no tourist would be drawn and quartered.
 
But, holy God in heaven, did Brazilians prove to me they are the undefeated, heavyweight champion of Craziest Futébol Fans on Earth. 


Rogelio and the Paddleball
September 3, 2008, 12:35 pm
Filed under: Brazil
Rogelio and I Battling it Out for Paddleball Glory

Rogelio and I Battling it Out for Paddleball Glory

Venturing out from the tourist inundation of the Pelourinho, Pat and I decided to take a trip to outer Salvador, for one last day at the beach.  After hopping a bus to what seemed to be one of many very nice beaches, we arrived at a smallish sand pile with some monstrous waves and lifeguards who did not like people entering the water, mainly because they didn’t feel like recovering a bloated gringo from the sea.  This combination of lack of nice beach and death-defying surf led to one simple conclusion:

PADDLEBALL!!!!

Now, one of the best purchases we made in Venezuela (other than the bulletproof suit of armor) was two wooden paddles, bearing two names: “Sports” on one side, and ”Champion” on the other.  Along with these paddles, which were clearly named after the Sports Champion Jeff Wheeland, came a small blue ball, which was obviously intended for paddling.  For those that have never heard of this delightful game, have never been to a beach, or are terrorists, this game is played by using the “paddles” to “paddle” the “ball” back and forth to the other player.  Hence the name, Paddleball.  Creative, no?

So, after playing with these marvelous toys for almost two months, Pat and I pretty much became two of the greatest players in the grand history of the sport.  Our best record was 54 (!) paddled balls in a row…wow, that sounded kinda gay.  However, in a completely ungay amazing feat of amazingness, this day was one for the record books.  Now, I could thrill all of you with the details of each ball paddled back and forth, but instead I will just tell you our new records, in chronological order: 55, 71, 149, 202.  Feel free to be amazed and/or dumbfounded.  If this feeling of dumbfounded amazement is insufficient, you can send me an envelope with $50 in it, and I will return it with 14 business days with a signed topless photo of yours truly.

So, after destroying the all-time Paddleball record, a 14 year old Brazilian kid had wandered over to watch.  After signing his shirt, and letting him bask in the glory that is “Team Wonderball” (which is our traveling group name), this kid asked if he could play.  For the next hour and a half, Pat, me, and our new buddy Rogelio (pronounced Ho-jay-lio) rotated in and out, and would have wowed legions of adoring she-fans with our incredible skills.  Rogelio was not quite as talented as we (but, in reality, only Jesus himself probably is), and he continually apologized for missing the ball, or hitting it away.  After assuring this kind little rascal it was not a problem, we played and played and played.  His thirst for Paddleball was akin to my thirst for ice-cold Brazilian beers, and sun-hot Brazilian women.
Pat and Rogelio in a Paddleball Deathmatch

Pat and Rogelio in a Paddleball Deathmatch

During a lull in action, Rogelio began to explain to us what he does in Salvador and why he was at the beach that day.  It seems that Rogelio hops on the bus every morning in Salvador, rides it all day long all over the city, and plays a plastic flute for change.  It was pretty clear that he lives in the favelas, and he told us he was at the beach that day to bathe.  It was an incredibly sad story, especially coming from such a nice, young kid.

At the end of the games, Pat and I discussed that this being our last day of beach time on the trip, we should give the Paddleball set to Rogelio.  After a few times of explaining to him in broken Portuguese that we were giving it to him as a gift, his eyes lit up, he drew a ear to ear grin, and said “Woooow, obrigado!”  I am fairly convinced this was the one of the few gifts he ever received.

He then invited us to listen to him play his flute, and we of course obliged.  While we walked across the beach to where he stashed his flute, he continuously thanked us for the Paddleball set, and couldn’t stop smiling.  When we finally reached the lifeguard stand where he hid his flute, Rogelio regaled us with a fun little song that sounded vaguely familiar, but we couldn’t quite put our finger on it.  But when he hit the chorus, it became oh-so-clear:

“Near, faaaaaar, wherEVER you aaaaaaare…”

You guessed it, Celine Dion’s masterpiece “My Heart Will Go On” from the movie Titanic.  After inducing a passion-inspired euphoria, we belting out the entire song along with Rogelio’s flute accompaniment. When he stopped playing, the passion overcame me, and I wept.  I just get so emotional when I hear Celine Dion.

It’s my one weakness.

Then the lifeguards had him play a few more songs, and we all chatted, and when they asked Rogelio how he met us, he replied “These are my amigos!” with a huge smile on his face.  This poor little kid’s gratitude was so incredible, especially just for a simple thing as a Paddleball set.  It was such a great feeling giving it to him, and seeing how much it meant to him.  I only wish it were possible to give him something more; something that could help him out of his current social situation and give him the chance of a better life.  The saddest part is that Brazil has an innumerable amount of these stories and has such a long way to go to solve its terribly complicated problems of inequality and poverty.

But, it gives me some comfort knowing that, with something as simple as a Paddleball set, we were able to bring some happiness into the life of one of these unfortunate kids.

And now, rest assured, when Paddleball becomes an Olympic sport, and I see Rogelio standing on the gold medal platform, I will be there, passionately shrieking “Near, faaaaaar, wherEVER you aaaaaaare…”


The Dark Side of Brazil
September 3, 2008, 12:20 pm
Filed under: Brazil
 
The Pelourinho in Salvador
The Pelourinho in Salvador

While Brazil is most likely the greatest country on this giant rock spinning uncontrollably through space, there are some things that aren’t quite as wonderful as one would hope.

 
For the first time on this trip, we encountered some of these issue when we arrived to Salvador, the third largest city in Brazil.  While Salvador is a beautiful colonial city with amazing architecture, and a strong African cultural vibe, there is an eerie aura that hovers over the town.  Stemming from Salvador’s dark past when it was the main port for the Portuguese slave trade, the legacy of these horrific centuries still lingers today.  The main tourist, cultural, and governmental center of the city, the Pelourinho, literally means “Whipping Post”.  Many stories abound in this area of hauntings of old buildings all around town.  However, the more disturbing legacy is that of the favelas, or a shanty towns, and the awful disparity between the huge majority of their inhabitants, unimaginably poor blacks, and the rest of the city.  There is no doubt that slavery over 400 years ago has led to this poverty and subsequent palpable danger within Salvador.
 
Upon arrival, we got our posada room in the Pelourinho, in the heart of the most touristy section of this colonial city.  However, while the sights were really beautiful, the area was located directly next to a favela, built haphazardly in the hills.  For the first time in Brazil, we were confronted with the serious inequality that is horribly apparent in this country.  Young children begging in the street with no shoes, homeless women with babies sleeping on streetcorners, people rummaging through every open garbage can, and obvious crack addicts (that wouldn’t share their crack) harrassing passersby for money were the norm in this area. 
 
Now, I understand that Latin America is rife with terrible poverty and inequality.  But, I’ve never seen such a direct contrast between the haves and have-nots like Brazil.  Directly next to this extreme poverty are massive, intricate governmental buildings, expensive tourist hotels, and luxurious homes.  And, while the situatino in the Pelournihno is definitely exacerbated by the fact that it is full of tourists and located right next to a favela, it is pretty shocking to see the dark side of Brazil.
The Elevator from the Lower Cidade to the Pelourinho

The Elevator from the Lower Cidade to the Pelourinho

 
And, while this was sad and disturbing to see, what was almost worse was the street vendors in the Pelourinho.  While walking down the street, it was impossible to avoid people handing out flyers for restaurants, stopping you to ask “Where you from? Come take this tour!” or trying to sell you some shitty trinkets such as a plastic statue of Jesus or a T-shirt emblazoned with “Brazil is neato” or some other crap.  The most irritating people, however, were the restaurant hawks.  These sons-of-bitches would get in your face as you walked by and say “Come to this restaurant.”  One time, and one time only, did we make the mistake of speaking to one of these fuckers.  It was a major lapse in judgment.
 
This dude walked us to one restaurant after another, until we finally said “We don’t really know what we want to eat, so we’ll just figure it out on our own, thanks.”  He didn’t get it, and continued following us around.  Finally, we said kindly “Go fire yourself off a cliff, or we shall do it for you.”  When we finally got to a restaurant, this shithead saw us, and had the nerve to yell at us for not letting him take us to this restaurant.  At this point I snapped, and picked him up like Darth Vader picking up the Emperor in “Return of the Jedi” and kept my promise and fired him off a cliff.
 
Eerie Salvador at Night

Eerie Salvador at Night

After a couple of days of dealing with this nightmare, we finally went to a bar with the crazy German guys we met, way outside of the Pelourinho.  This place was clean, full of Brazilians, no tourists, and had no sign of the plague of flyer-hander-outers anywhere.  It was nice, but was clearly a wealthy neighborhood that does a sadly efficient job of burying the unwanted side of Brazil.

 
So, although this city was really rough and sketchy, Salvador did a good job of showing that while Brazil is really far advanced of most developing countries in environmental protection, economy, and gorgeous women, it still has a lot of work to do to elimate some very serious problems.  And, it also brings to the present the horrible past of slavery and European conquest of the world.
Fucking Euros.
 
And, if Brazil wants help, I would be more than happy to throw multiple flyer people off cliffs for them.  Free of charge.  And, on the bright side, the beer in Salvador is still really, really cold.


The Happiest Farm on Earth
August 26, 2008, 9:22 am
Filed under: Brazil
 
Pat, Me, and Helio
Pat, Me, and Helio

I have a friend whose name is Helio.  He is Brazilian.  During the week, Helio lives in a nice house in Sao Paolo, one of the largest cities on Earth, with almost 30 million people.  He doesn’t know most of them.  Like Batman, however, during most weekends Helio has an alternate identity.  In this identity, he is still Helio, is still Brazilian, still doesn’t know all 30 million people in Sao Paolo, but he lives in another place…a place unlike any other on God’s Blue Earth.

The Cathedral of the Midget God of Aguai

The Cathedral of the Midget God of Aguaí

 
This place is called “The Farm.”
 
While most traditional farms grow crops or cultivate delicious animals that humans cut to pieces, smother in sauce, place in their mouths, then chew, swallow, and eventually discharge into feces receptacles or (when terrified in Venezuela) their pants, this farm does none of the above.  On this farm, the only thing that grows is magic, and the only thing cultivated are dreams.  Oh, and chicken eggs.  They cultivate those too.
 
After leaving the hustle and bustle of Sao Paolo, Helio, his girlfriend Deborah, his cousin Talissa, Pat and I drove for about 2 hours until we reached the little town of Aguaí.  While driving through this Brazilian suburbia, we passed into the center of town and stopped at a gate.  Generally, in my experience, farms aren’t located in the middle of suburbs, but as I said before, on this farm, you are transported to a magical land where suburbs don’t exist.  As the gate slid open, and we shifted the car inside, the first thing we were greeted by was an exact miniature replica of the town’s cathedral.  This replica church stands at about 15 feet tall, is covered in the identical statues, stained glass windows, and steeple of the real church, and was built by Helio’s grandfather, a proud Aguaían, in tribute to what is most likely a powerful, yet merciful, Midget God of Aguaí. 
 
The next thing we passed was a perfectly groomed soccer field, which is basically the most cherished thing in all of Helio’s family.  If the farm caught on fire one day, they would all sprint outside with shovels and pickaxes, and move the field yard-by-yard to safety.  Maybe later they’d try to save the monkey.The Disgruntled Monkey
 
Oh yes, you heard me right.  They have a monkey.  He’s kind of a jerk though, and wouldn’t do my bidding and fetch me cold beers, pick the ticks out of my hair, or dance around when I manically clapped my hands and repeatedly yelled “Dance monkey! Dance!  Waaaahaaaahaaa!”  But, nonetheless, it was a monkey, and I grinned wildly while he climbed around his hut and tree while nervously eyeballing me. 
 
Now, for more about the farm.  It is a huge place, with about 18 bedrooms, a swimming pool, and a glorious bar.  This bar rivalled most I’ve ever seen (and, unbeknownst to most, I’ve frequented many a bar — woo!) by having about 6 shelves full of different bottles of international alcohols, old beer cans (remember the old 1980s dancing Bud can with headphones that scooted around to music? — they had one of those too), and all kinds of Corinthians futebol paraphernalia, which is a rite of passage to be a member of this proud family.  What was more fun, was that this farm was full of family members — aunts, uncles, Moms, Dad, cousins, friends, and of course, Grandma, all of whom wanted you to drink caipirinhas.  So, after a session with these fun-loving lunatics, in which Grandma herself took a shot without using her hands, I rapidly found myself swinging from a tree with a cold beverage in tow, trying fruitlessly to capture a bewildered monkey.
Look Kids, No Hands!

Look Kids, No Hands!

 
 
 
On the topic of animals, while this farm did not cultivate animals for consumption, I did not intend this to mean there are no animals.  Helio’s aunt is an avid animal protectionist (and has a strange ability to speak to animals — within seconds of approaching that dastardly evasive monkey, it would hop into her arms) so there are abundant animals that live a life of peace on the farm.  At least, peace that occasionally is interrupted by a drunken gringo chasing them to and fro. 
 
Among the animals on the farm are a flock of geese, 400 million chickens and roosters, three toucans who enjoy nothing more than pecking peoples’ eyeballs from their heads, four parrots, a pond full of fish, and five Doberman Pinschers.  Oh, and one other peculiar animal that once resembled a dog. Let me paint you a mental picture of this interesting beast: imagine a dog (possibly a shitzu or cockerspaniel, mainly because their names are hilarous); now imagine this dog being eaten by a pregnant dog; now imagine a hippo eating this pregnant dog; now imagine a Doberman Pinscher eating this hippo, and Voila! you have the “Fattest Dog on Earth.” 
 
The Fattest Dog on Earth

The Fattest Dog on Earth

 

 
This thing was incredible.  It most likely weighed close to 200 pounds, had a belly like a pregnant she-giant, could stagger at a lightning pace of 0.4 mph generally toward its food bowl, and, being Grandma’s baby, slept on a human’s bed.  It was, literally, the size of a smallish, obese brontosaurus.  We told Helio at one point it would lose a few pounds if he took for a walk…around the Earth.  Alas, he was a gentle fat ass, and I couldn’t resist giving him all of my table scraps, which he consumed along with the plate, the table the plate was on, and the upper half of my body.
 
More on the Farm.  The miniature church previously mentioned was not the only altar to the town of Agauí.  There were tiny replicas of the first two-story house in the town, complete with tiny couches, a tiny table, and a tiny bed.  It made even a smallish Jeff Wheeland feel like a normal sized-man…sniff…for this one day, I knew the joy of being average-sized, like the rest of you…sniff. 
For once in my life, I am a giant.

For once in my life, I am a giant.

Anywho, true to form, this replica had two floors with a balcony, that we climbed out on to scream to all the others in Midgetville “I am enormous!  Bow before me!”  This tiny little village also had a tribute to the Mayor of Tinytown, with a perfect replica of the Aguaí mayoral office.  After playing “Merciful, Handsome, Yet Spiteful Mayor” for seven or eight hours, I wandered around the property for awhile longer, only to find the tiny train tracks!  While no longer functional, in the past there was a little train that rumbled around the property.  This farm, for children and simple-minded doofuses such as yours truly, is probably the greatest place on Earth. 

 
Bow Before the Giants of Aguai!!!

Bow Before the Giants of Aguaí!!!

Later that evening, after all 25 of us feasted on a Brazilian churrascuria (barbecue) consisting of a couple of painless slices of the “Fattest Dog on Earth” (which was about 400 kilos of beef) we headed out to Helio’s friend’s house for a little pre-party before a big concert in Aguaí.  When we arrived, we met a bunch of Brazilians who did something very, very strange for their race: they spoke English.  Thus, for the first time in my month in this fine country, I was able to communicate to people.  It was delightful.  Moreover, these people had a wonderfully attractive collection of women with them, most of whom spoke English as well.  One of said women was blond-haired, blue-eyed, and deliciously beautiful.  Naturally, she had zero attraction to me, but was quite taken with our little friend Patrick.  By the end of the night, after hours of gazing into (what I consider, when comparing to myself) this hideous creature named Pat’s eyes, a strange thing happened for a Brazilan woman when talking to a man: nothing.  While constantly dogding my efforts to sneak-attack-kiss her from all angles throughout the night, this lovely specimen got absolutely no loving from Pat.  There are two possible reasons for this:

 
 
1. He is gayer than Christmas.
2. He has a girlfriend.
 
Despite, Helio’s and my own suspicions about #1, the answer is #2.  He has a girlfriend, and is disgustingly faithful.  So Lisa, if you are reading this, you owe our little friend Patrick a big time “high-five”, and possibly a high “woo hoo!, wink-wink, caw-caw!” if you catch my disturbing sexual innuendo.  Oh, and please let Helio and I know if it was just #1 that was the real reason for his fidelity.
The End of the Night

The End of the Night

 
By the end of the night, Helio’s English, which is normally very good, degenerated into a mishmash of fake slurred words, which was basically the same thing as Canadian English, and his Portuguese was nonexistent.  He was “The Man Without a Language.”  So, after consuming multiple glasses of Brazilian “wine” (read: grape juice), dancing the Gringo Samba (read: running in place), and having my face inhaled by a Brazilian woman (read: she must have been really drunk), we stumbled our way home to finish the night with a game of “Harrass the Monkey.” 
 
All was well on the Happiest Farm on Earth.


God’s Favorite Country
August 14, 2008, 8:53 am
Filed under: Brazil
So, Brazil has thus far presented me with a noticeable lack of curious Venezuelan experiences such as explosive diarrhea, military encounters, and insatiable eyeball thieves.  This has created a relative lull in my terrifyingly interesting travel stories.  This is not to say that Brazil isn’t an amazing place, it just does a pretty f’ing good job of simplifying the life of a traveling fool.
 
However, what Brazil lacks in feces-themed or bodily-harm focused stories, it makes up for in strange customs and culture.  These I shall attempt to outline below:
 
1. Portuguese — this language is difficult.  It’s mainly difficult because I don’t speak it, but others continue to wish to speak it to me.  My conversations here generally begin with “Como vai voce” (How are you?)…and actually pretty much end right there, because I don’t really know how to say much else.  The response I receive is a cluster of verbs, nouns, and sentences (at least that’s I think they are) followed by a long pause in which I begin to realize I was asked a question.  I then continue this “conversation” by speaking an illustrious mix of Spanish with my faux-Brazilian accent (which is basically an odd conglomeration of Italian accents I have heard from pizza restaurants, Russian accents I heard from watching “Spies Like Us” numerous times in the 1980s, and a little touch of Jeff Wheeland accent, which is generally kind of a slurred gibberish that is composed of fake English words) and pray to the Lord in heaven that I satisfied this person with my response, so that they will leave me alone. 
 
It never works this way. 
 
Generally, they continue this catastrophe by asking me another question which I do not understand.  After trying fruitlessly to stare at their mouth intensely enough to try to change their spoken language to English by using old Jedi mind tricks, I again try to answer their “question” (which was most likely just “What is your name?” or “Which devil did you bribe to alter your hair to such a strange color?” or possibly “Would you like me to give you stimulating pleasures or maybe a lot of free money…oh, you don’t really speak Portuguese, do you…ok, nevermind”) by mumbling a few words, none of which are understood by my conversational counterpart.  Finally, we both end the conversation with the universal symbol of Brazil, and more or less the only thing that both I and Portuguese speakers understand: the thumbs up.
 
2. The Thumbs Up — I love this thing.  While the greatest passions in Brazil revolve around futebol, partying, futebol, and extremely friendly women, these all pale in comparison to their love of the Thumbs Up.  Literally, every encounter in this country ends and/or begins with this little gem.  For example, the other day, Pat and I bothered our lovely Posada receptionist multiple times for towels, toilet paper, and questions about this and that (mainly just to watch her delightful mouth speak her language).  Upon returning, Pat tried to ask her jokingly “if she missed us” while we were gone and not bothering her.  Now, a quick language lesson: in Spanish, “nos extrañaste?” means “did you miss us?”  (nos=us and extrañaste=did you miss)  However, in Portuguese, this is not quite the same translation: extranar=to be strange.  Alas, while Pat’s Portuguese is infinitely superior to mine, instead of saying:
 
“Did you miss us?”
he said
“Do you find us strange?”
 
She looked a little confused, but answered with a simple Thumbs Up.  Such a polite way to say “Thumbs Up to the Weirdos.” 
 
Moreover, literally all of my questions end with a questioning Thumbs Up, just to get an answer I understand with a clear affirmative or negative:
 
1. “Do you serve food here (Thumbs Up)?” 
2. “Hello Brazilian woman, do you like how I suggestively sway my hips back and forth while I erotically dance around you in circles (Thumbs Up)?” 
3. “Do I look fat in this speedo (Thumbs Up)?” 
 
Thus, the Thumbs Up makes life so much easier, even if I do get the occasional Thumbs Down, mainly in response to question two in the previous sentence.
 
3. Açai — For those not in the know, açai is a dark purple fruit that grows deep in the bowels of the Amazon forest.  Brazilians harvest this fruit, then magically turn it into the most delicious sorbet that is mixed with granola and bananas.  Thus, Açai and pizza have become the staples of my diet.  It, like Lucky Charms, is magically delicious.  And it’s extremely healthy, so it counterbalances all the beer we consume.  However, there are a couple of downsides: I have a hell of an açai gut; and, it turns my poop black.
 
4. Camarão — Portuguese for shrimp, and a very humorous way our friend from Sao Paolo describes the women from Pará state in Northern Brazil.  Another quick background information session: shrimp, here in Brazil, aren’t quite like the ones we see in the USofA that come de-shelled and without the head; here you get the whole animal, head and all.  Moreover, women in Pará are notorious for their absolutely flawless female bodies, and somewhat flawed facial features.  Thus was spawned the name of “camarão”: like with a Brazilian shrimp, with these Brazilian women, you pull the head off, and eat the body.
 
5. Brazilian Women — Ok, time to address the elephant in the room.  Now, undoubtedly, most of us have heard the stories of the…hmm, how should I put this?…predatory nature of Brazilian women.  Well, from my experiences thus far, I can say that it seems to be more or less true, although I sadly do not know from pure fact.  Here in Northeastern Brazil, there are few blond people, and the locals tend to have darker skin than their Southern countrymates.  Thus, upon walking around, blond-haired white foreigners such as myself and Pat tend to attract an odd, stop-what-you-are-doing-even-if-it’s-open-heart-surgery-or-landing-an-airplane type of look from Brazilians wherever we go.  This is only intensified at clubs and bars, where locals dance and imbibe watery Brazilian beer.  For example, I was doing the Gringo Shuffle (the only passable dance I am coordinated enough to do — which is oddly similar to the Roger Rabbit) around a bumping club, when something hooked me from behind, impeding my progress.  I tried to shake myself loose without turning around to see what it was, but I was trapped in its death grip. When I turned around, I was pounced upon by a dancing Brazilian woman, who wished to employ me as her dance partner.  I obliged.  After three minutes of Gringo Shuffling and breaking nine of her toes, this little number made an agressive attack move.  Like a roundhouse kick from Chuck Norris, it was impossible to defend, and I found my face being inhaled by my new friend.  This was surprising.  When I finally managed to wrestle myself away from her so as to alert my friends to keep an eye out that she wasn’t a cannibal that had plans on dining on me, I told her I’d be right back to continue our “discussion.”  Sadly, when I returned, she was gone.  Nonetheless, it was quite a learning experience.
 
One more fun little anecdote about Brazilian women.  We had arrived in Sao Luis, a city in the Northernmost parts of Brazil after a 14 hour bus ride and were exhausted.  We had to get up the next morning for another one, so we were taking it easy, eating pizza and discussing topics of interest, mainly that Brazilian women are really, really aggressive.  Our conversation was interrupted by our waitress who handed me a note.  It said, in broken written, English: “I like you.”  I turned around and there were two Brazilian girls staring us down, with that look in their eyes.  We quickly wolfed down our pizza, not sure when they would descend on us and wolf us down.  We were able to finish eating, then just before we left we stopped by their table and told them our situation of exhaustion, and that we were glad they liked us.  Their disappointment was deeper than the Grand Canyon, but they held back from sexually murdering us.  We barely escaped.
 
So, to make a long point short: Brazilian women are aggressive.
 
6. Sand — There is a lot of sand in Brazil.  While known worldwide for its abundance of trees in the Amazon rainforest, Brazil is regrettably unknown for being the Greatest Sandbox on Earth.  We’ve covered over 2000 kilometers of ground (only halfway through our trip) in this country, and all of it has had beaches or sand dunes. 
 
People here are born of the sand.  They all seem to have 4×4 trucks, dune buggies, sandboards, and streets that are made entirely of sand.  Yesterday we did a crazy dune buggy trip which included us being flung over huge dunes at speeds in excess of 400 mph.  All the while we were sitting basically on top of the buggy.  It was fun…but, as is normal nowadays, I pooped in my pants a little bit.  In the middle of our tour, we got to experience this sandy culture by zip lining off sand dunes into clear natural lagoons, sandboarding off the dunes while plummeting into the water, and…um…doing…other stuff involving sand…sandcastles?  Sure.
 
But, regardless, these people have a lot of sand here.  We’ve even seen multiple towns that need to be moved to escape the relentless approach of omniverous sand dunes eating their buildings and reclaiming what is rightly theirs: the sand.  I wouldn’t be surprised if these people drink a shot or two of sand just to pick them up in the morning.
 
7. Flip Flops and Board Shorts — Ah…this is why Brazil is wonderful.  In Venezuela, a gringo toting flip flops and board shorts, even on the beach, was a strange sight that could invite death, dismemberment, and kidney theft from the local population.  Even when it was 210 degrees outside, people there wore pants and shoes. 
 
This is not so in Brazil.  Here, everyone wears flip flops and board shorts all the time.  The President most likely wears them to important staff meetings, which are probably held in a sand dune lagoon.  I haven’t worn shoes or pants in weeks, and this makes me happy.  Shoes are for squares and suckers.  If you wear them here, it’s so foreign that Brazilian women will not give you the time of day, and people will not give you the Thumbs Up.  So beware.
 
And that, my friends, is the list of “Interesting Things About God’s Favorite Country.”  I’m a big, big, big fan.
 
Thumbs Up.


Brazilian Pleasantville
August 8, 2008, 2:29 pm
Filed under: Brazil
Brazil.  Sweet, sweet Brasil.
 
We flew in from that death trap we know and love as Caracas on a more or less retarded flight path, with three flights to get to our destination.  However, we passed over the Amazon rainforest for many hours, which was really cool.  It basically looks like an ocean that’s full of trees.  Kind of like the moons of Endor from so many years ago…
 
Anywho, our travel group has diminshed, as Willy went home, so now we are two.  Pat and I felt the full force of Brazilian hospitality on our second flight when an elderly woman sat own next to us on the plane.  Almost immediately, a guy across the aisle asked her if she wanted to trade seats with him to be more comfortable, even though it was basically just the same seat on the other side of the plane.  Within about 14 seconds, I could tell this guy really wanted to ask me something, but was hesitant.  About 14 more seconds later, he turned to me and said “Um…where are you from?” in perfect English.  This began a 3 hour conversation about all things Brazilian.  Rodolfo was his name, and talking was his game.  This guy was really cool, and really knowledgeable about his country, and passed the time well.  Also, when we got to the airport, he asked us where we were going, and took us there in a cab, and paid for the whole thing.  It was the beginning of our experience with super friendly, Brazilians who are super curious about foreigners.  These people love approaching us and, even if they don’t speak English, they will chat away, all while I stare at them blankly not understand a word of their Portuguese. 
 
So, upon arriving in Belém, a major city on the mouth of the Amazon river, we wandered the town and tried to find how to get a trip into the jungle.  That is when we discovered Ilha do Marajó.  This island is about the size of Switzerland, with only three small towns, the largest having a whopping 19,000 people.  So we hopped on a ferry down river, and three hours later ended up in one of the towns, Brazilian Pleasantville, a.k.a Soure.
 
This place is amazing.  It has about 3 paved streets, all with grass-lined medians, and the rest are either dirt or grass roads.  But, this pleasant little town has a handful of cars, a few dozen motorcycles and everyone else either walks or rides a bike.  It is probably the most mellow place on Earth.  It’s kinda like taking a bunch of sleeping pills and watching “Leave It to Beaver.” 
 
However, this is not the best part of this utopia.  The best part is that I was able to finally knock off one of the more difficult tasks on my “Things to Do Before I Take an Eternal Dirt Nap” list.  The list goes something like this:
 
1. Go to a Super Bowl
2. Have a Glass-Knuckled Death brawl with an Orangutan
3. Threesome
4. Ride a Water Buffalo Through the Amazon Rainforest
 
It just so happened that I was in the right spot at the right time, and #4 is now checked off the list. 
 
About 200 years ago, a French boat coming from Africa sunk (surrendered to the river, more likely) on its way to French Guyana and its cargo was thrown overboard into the Amazon.  While this is not that interesting, what is interesting is that its cargo was water buffaloes, and they all swam to shore on the Ilha do Marajó.  Now, they are everywhere.  You walk down the street and there are giant water buffaloes grazing on the grass streets and dumping all over the place.  I was unfortunate enough to discover that water buffalo chips are not as delicious as they sound, and are not that cool to step in in sandals.
 
So, due to this awesome fact, we did what any smart tourist would do, and book a tour to ride these behemoths, and knock out #4.  My water buffalo was a monster that weighed 2200 pounds, had horns that were over 4 feet long from tip to tip, and had a serious need for an attitude adjustment.  I named him Walter.  Walter Buffalo. 
 
While riding Walter was no big problem, except that he loved walking into low-lying trees so that I would ride directly through the branches, it was when I got off and tried to get a picture with my new buddy that our friendship became complicated.  As I approached Walter to get a picture, he was staring at me nervously.  When I got close enough, he swung his horns at me in a protective manner, which kindly said “Back off bitch, no one rides this train for free.”  I didn’t get the hint, and tried again.  This time, he took a cut at me with his horns, and faked me out with a little half charge.  As I ran away, I got the gist of what he was saying:
 
1. Walter must be Amish, because he doesn’t like his picture being taken. 
2. And he’s a dick.
 
After this marvelous ride however, I was grinning like a simpleton at Legoland, and we headed back to town to celebrate our victory.  This is when we met yet another extra-friendly Brazilian from Sao Paolo, Leo.  He and his friends were sitting near us at a restaurant, when a couple Brazilian women rode by.  And, just like Rodolfo before, he really wanted to talk to us, so he yelled from a few tables over “You like Brazilian women?”  After affirming that we indeed do, he came over and proceeded to order beer after beer, while also affirming that his original question was his best English.  It mattered not.  He more or less understood Spanish, and with Pat’s Portuguese, we had big night ahead of us speaking Portugenglañol. 
 
One of Leo’s best comments in this newly discovered language was his description of his red, puffy eye, which was from one of the multitude of strange Amazonian afflictions.  He called it “Fuck Eye.”  Later on, when Pat’s leg swelled up for a day, we understood that it was nothing more than a slight case of “Fuck Leg.”  So we proceeded to drink many, many lovely, ice cold Cerpa Gold beers, which Leo insisted on paying for.  Brazilians tend to come over, talk to you as much as possible, then pay for everything.  I love this country.
After a big night out, we discovered we were the only tourists in Pleasantville and probably therefore the most famous people.  The next day we decided to rent motorcycles to check the island out.  This was fun.  While cruising around on our speedy little bikes, all the while keeping an eye out for water buffaloes, we hit up a couple of nice Amazon river beaches, and caught many, many looks from confused locals wondering what those two bright white blurs were that just zoomed past their buffaloes.
 
The next day, we discovered our fame.  At the very least 10 people came up to us and told us they saw us drinking beer here, having a caipirihna there, walking down this street, or taunting a water buffalo in front of the post office.  We were celebrities.  That afternoon we met back up with Leo, and headed out to the beach for some pre-game ice cold beer, and got ready for the big blow out party that night.  One of Leo’s friends, who we called the Mayor because he knew everyone in Soure, was sponsoring a massive party with a hip new band known as “Megafox.”  Now, I’m not positive, but I think that Alvin split up from the Chipmunks after a particularly ugly peanut-eating binge, moved to Brazil to learn Portuguese, and started a band called “Megafox.”  They’re so hot right now.  Their music was blaring forth from every single radio and stereo in town, over and over and over and over again.  And I mean everywhere — the beach, houses, cars, buses, water buffalo-mounted MP3 players — everywhere.
 
After the beach, we cleaned up, and Leo headed over with the Mayor to pick us up on motorcycles.  The Mayor is probably the most helpful guy in Soure.  Althought he only spoke two sentences of English (“Let’s go!” and “We can go now!”) I think he might have a keen Spideysense for trouble, because when our motorcycles broke down, he happened to be there; when we needed a ride, he picked us up; when we needed a serious Megafox fix, he threw a Megaparty with them headlining.  So, he dropped us off for some real Italian pizza, and left us with one of his motorcycles for transportation later that night.  This was weird because there were three grown men with one motorcycle.  But, after unsuccessfully attempting to lasso a water buffalo for transportation, we all piled on and rolled.  Three dudes, one bike…sounds like a gay porno.  But it was hilarious, and totally ungay.
 
This is how we rolled to the Megaparty.  Upon arrival, the Mayor popped out and handed us our free VIP tickets, and headed in.  There were probably 500 people at the show, and Megafox was about ready to blow the place up.  Since we were gringotastic celebrities, the Mayor took the three of us backstage to meet Megafox in person.  We entered and Pat immediately fainted, and I couldn’t stop screaming “OHMYGAAAAWWDDD MEGAFOOOOOXXXX!”  When we gathered our composure, we met then band, who are about 10 people, one who sings, I think one who plays the drums, and the rest were male dancers and really hot female dancers.  One happened to be stretching her leg on a band member’s shoulder, in a rather suggestive position.  This was kinda embarrasing, because she turned to look at us, and Leo, Pat and I were all in a trance, staring at her suggestiveness.  When we realized that all three of us were creepily staringat her, we all reacted the same by dumbly grinning and giving the thumbs up.  She stopped stretching after that.
 
So, we headed back out and Megafox got on stage and rocked the fucking house.  People were dancing like crazy, unless of course we walked by, which then they would stop and stare.  I think we were a bigger attraction than Megafox, if there is even such a thing.  So after a few god-awful Skol beers (think watered-down MGD with a little water buffalo urine for flavor) we wandered up to the stage, when the lead singer yelled to the crowd “Come on, get on stage!”  No one complied, so Leo told me to go.  For most people who know me, a suggestion of doing something stupid in front of people is my forté, so I accepted.
 
I hopped up on stage to 500 dumbfounded Brazilians staring confusedly, and started grinding with the booty dancing ladies.  It was wonderful.  In two days, I checked off two things from the “Things to Do Before I Take an Eternal Dirt Nap” list.  Number #11 was complete:
 
11.  Booty dance on stage with Megafox
 
What a night.  What a country.
 
The next day we left Marajo, with tears in our eyes, and Megafox in our ears.  Lucky for us, they were on our ferry back to Belem, so we hung out with their lovely, lovely dancers for the whole ride.  They were taking pictures of us like it was we who were the celebrities.  Oh Megafox, no one can be more famous than you.
 
So that was our first Brazilian experience.  So far, it’s water buffaloriffic and Megafoxtastic.